How Much Are My Pokémon Cards Worth? A Step-by-Step Guide to Checking Card Values

Maybe you found an old binder in a closet, opened a few packs, or you are thinking about selling part of your collection. Either way, the first question is always the same: how much are my Pokémon cards worth?

The honest answer is that a card is worth what buyers have recently paid for that exact card, in that condition. Not the highest asking price you can find, and not a number someone quoted years ago. This guide walks you through how to check Pokémon card values step by step, so you can price, buy or sell with confidence.

The short answer

To find what a Pokémon card is worth:

1. Identify the exact card: name, set, card number, variant, edition and language.
2. Judge its condition honestly, or check its grade if it is in a graded slab.
3. Look up recent sold prices for that exact version and condition, not asking prices.
4. Compare a few sources and use the middle of the recent sales as your realistic value.

The rest of this guide explains each step and the mistakes that trip most people up.

Step 1: Identify the exact card

Two cards with the same Pokémon on them can have very different values. Before you look up any price, write down these details:

• Card name. For example, Charizard, Umbreon VMAX or Pikachu.
• Set. Look for the small set symbol, usually near the bottom of the card. Each set has its own symbol.
• Card number. Printed at the bottom, often as a number over the set size, such as 4/102. Secret rares can have a number higher than the set size.
• Rarity. A circle, diamond or star symbol shows common, uncommon or rare. Many modern sets also have special rarities such as full art, alternate art and illustration rares.
• Variant. Holo, reverse holo or non-holo versions of the same card are priced separately.
• Edition and printing. On early English cards, a 1st Edition stamp or a so-called shadowless print can change the value a lot compared with the unlimited version.
• Language. English, Japanese and other language versions each have their own market.
• Promo or stamp. Some promo cards carry stamps or special marks that make them a different item.

If you are not sure which version you have, search the card name plus the card number and set name, and compare the images carefully. Small details, like the position of the holo pattern or a stamp, matter.

Step 2: Judge the condition honestly

Condition is one of the biggest factors in price. The same card in near mint condition and in heavily played condition can sell for very different amounts.

For raw cards (cards that are not graded), check:

• Corners. Are they sharp, or soft and rounded?
• Edges. Look for whitening, especially on the back.
• Surface. Tilt the card under a light to spot scratches, dents, print lines and creases.
• Centering. Are the borders roughly even on all sides?

Most sellers use common condition labels such as Near Mint, Lightly Played, Moderately Played, Heavily Played and Damaged. Be strict with yourself. Most people overestimate the condition of their own cards, and buyers will judge it from your photos.

For graded cards, the grade on the label does the work for you. A card graded by PSA, BGS, CGC or another company is priced by its grading company and grade, and a high grade can be worth far more than the raw card. Our trading card condition and grading guide explains the condition labels, how grading works and when grading may be worth it.

Step 3: Look up sold prices, not asking prices

This is the step most people get wrong. Anyone can list a card for any price. What matters is what buyers actually paid.

Good places to check recent sales:

• eBay sold listings. Search for the card, then use the Sold Items filter. You see real completed sales with dates, photos and final prices. Look closely at the photos and titles, because condition and variants are often mixed together.
• TCGplayer. Popular for raw cards in the US. Card pages show a market price based on recent sales and a list of recent sales by condition.
• PriceCharting. Tracks prices for raw and graded versions of many cards based on completed sales, and shows price history over time.
• Collection apps such as Collectr. Useful for tracking the estimated value of a whole collection. Treat the numbers as estimates and double-check expensive cards against real sales.
• Grading company price data. For graded cards, PSA publishes auction prices realized for many graded cards, along with a population report that shows how many copies have received each grade.

When you look at sales, always match the version and condition. A sale of a PSA 10 tells you nothing about a raw, lightly played copy, and a reverse holo sale tells you little about the holo version.

Step 4: Work out a realistic value

Once you have a list of recent sales for the right version and condition:

• Focus on the most recent sales. Prices for popular cards can move quickly, especially after a new set release or a spike in interest.
• Ignore the outliers. One unusually high or low sale can be a mistake, a misdescribed card or a shill bid.
• Use the middle of the range. If several recent sales cluster around a similar price, that cluster is your realistic market value.
• Remember the costs. If you sell, shipping supplies, postage and any platform fees come out of what you receive. Check the current fees on whichever platform you use.

If you find very few sales, the card may be rare or simply not in demand. In that case, value is harder to pin down, and an auction can be a fair way to let buyers decide.

Which Pokémon cards tend to be worth more?

There is no simple rule, but some factors often push values up:

• Popular Pokémon. Fan favorites such as Charizard, Pikachu and the Eeveelutions often attract more buyers.
• Special rarities. Alternate art, full art, secret rares and illustration rares are often chase cards in modern sets.
• Older cards in strong condition. Vintage cards from the early sets are harder to find in high grades.
• 1st Edition and early printings. On early English sets, these versions are usually more desirable than unlimited prints.
• Low population in high grades. Graded cards with few copies at the top grade can be in strong demand.

On the other hand, most common and uncommon cards from modern sets are worth very little individually. That is normal. Bulk cards are usually sold in large lots rather than one by one.

Common pricing mistakes

• Pricing from asking prices. Active listings show what sellers hope for, not what buyers pay.
• Mixing up versions. Holo, reverse holo, 1st Edition, unlimited and different languages are different cards.
• Overrating condition. A card that looks perfect at arm's length may show whitening or scratches up close.
• Comparing raw to graded. A graded card's price does not apply to your raw copy.
• Trusting one source. Cross-check at least two or three sources before you decide on a price.
• Ignoring fakes. Very cheap listings for valuable cards are a warning sign. Our guide on how to spot fake Pokémon cards shows what to check.

Getting the most when you sell

Once you know what your card is worth, a few things help you get a fair price:

• Take clear photos of the front, back, corners, edges and any flaws. Our guide on how to photograph trading cards shows the full photo set buyers want.
• Describe it accurately, including the set, card number, variant, language and honest condition.
• Pick the right format. A fixed price works when you know the market value. An auction can work well for in-demand cards or cards with few recent sales, because buyers set the price. See how online card auctions work for opening bids, reserves and bidding.
• Pack it properly. A card only keeps its value if it arrives in the same condition. Read how to ship trading cards safely.

Checking values on PullBull

PullBull is a marketplace for collectible trading cards where sellers run their own stores and list cards in timed auctions. Each auction shows its bid history, so you can see how collectors are bidding on a card. PullBull is in an early, pre-launch stage, so the number of listings is still small, and it works best as one more data point next to the sources above.

Paid checkout and payment protection are not active on PullBull yet. If you buy or sell, use the contact seller button to agree on packing, tracking and who pays postage before you go ahead. To learn more, read what is PullBull?

See what collectors are bidding on. Browse stores and timed auctions for graded and raw cards. Browse auctions on PullBull

FAQ

How can I check what my Pokémon cards are worth for free? Search for the exact card on eBay and use the Sold Items filter, then compare with free price pages such as TCGplayer and PriceCharting. Match the set, card number, variant and condition.

Are old Pokémon cards worth money? Some are, but not all. Older cards in strong condition, 1st Edition cards and popular rare cards can be valuable. Many common cards, even older ones, are worth little on their own.

Why do price sites show different values for the same card? Each site uses different sales data, time periods and methods. That is why it helps to check several sources and look at the actual recent sales.

Is a Japanese Pokémon card worth the same as the English version? Not usually. Japanese and English cards have separate markets, and either one can be worth more depending on the card.

Should I get my card graded before selling? It depends on the card's value and condition. Grading costs money and takes time, so it usually only makes sense for valuable cards in excellent condition. Compare recent sales of raw and graded copies before you decide.

How do I tell if a card is holo or reverse holo? On a holo card, the shiny foil is in the artwork box. On a reverse holo, the foil covers the rest of the card while the artwork is not foil. They are priced separately.

What should I do with bulk common cards? Common and uncommon cards are usually sold in lots by quantity rather than individually. Pull out any rares, holos and special cards first and price those separately.

Bottom line

Your Pokémon cards are worth what buyers have recently paid for the same exact card in the same condition. Identify the card carefully, judge condition honestly, check sold prices across a few sources and use the middle of recent sales as your guide. Do that, and you will avoid underselling your best cards or overpaying for someone else's. When you are ready to see what collectors are bidding on, browse auctions on PullBull.

Related: Trading card condition and grading guide · How to spot fake Pokémon cards · How to photograph trading cards · How online card auctions work · How to ship trading cards safely · What is PullBull?